Is the Nanu Oya to Ella Train Still Running? What 2026 Travellers Need to Know

You have seen the photo. The blue train curving through emerald tea plantations, mist hanging over valleys, a passenger leaning out the open door. It is the most famous image of Sri Lanka travel, and it comes from a specific stretch of railway: the hill country line between Nanu Oya and Ella.

In November 2025, Cyclone Ditwah and the subsequent floods caused severe damage to several sections of Sri Lanka's main line. For months, that famous train ride stopped entirely. Now it is back — but not everything is the same as before.

Yes, it is running — but only from Nanu Oya to Ella

The Nanu Oya to Ella section reopened on 18 July 2026, and passenger services resumed the same day. This is the most scenic portion of the entire hill country line the stretch that passes through Ambewela, Haputale, and the Demodara loop before reaching Ella. The trains are running, the views are intact, and travellers are boarding again.

What has changed: the section from Kandy to Nanu Oya remains under repair and is expected to reopen by the end of 2026. This means you cannot currently board the train in Kandy and ride it all the way to Ella as a single journey. You have to reach Nanu Oya first by road, then continue by train from there.

The good news: the Nanu Oya to Ella portion is the part everyone actually comes for. The Kandy to Hatton stretch is pleasant but not extraordinary. The Hatton to Nanu Oya section passes through tea country, but the real spectacle starts south of Nanu Oya. You are not missing the highlight.

What is worth doing

• The Nanu Oya to Ella train ride — The core experience. A 2-hour 15-minute journey through the heart of Sri Lanka's hill country. The train climbs through tea estates, passes waterfalls, enters tunnels cut through mountain rock, and runs along spectacular ridges with views that drop into valleys hundreds of metres below. The final approach to Ella through the Demodara loop is the most photographed section. Sit on the left side of the train (facing south) for the best views. First class observation saloon gives you large windows that open. Second class means wooden benches and hanging out the open door. Both are excellent.
• Starting from Nanu Oya station itself — Nanu Oya is the nearest railway station to Nuwara Eliya, about 30 minutes by tuk-tuk from the town centre. The station is small but atmospheric, surrounded by hills. Arrive early and buy your ticket first. The station platform fills up fast on departure mornings. The nearby tea stalls sell good kottu roti and strong Ceylon tea while you wait.
• Ambewela stop options — Ambewela is the midpoint of the journey, known for rolling green hills that look like New Zealand. If you are not in a hurry, consider getting off here for an hour. The air is noticeably cooler and the landscape is wide-open dairy country. A few small tea shops are within walking distance of the station.
• Haputale viewpoint stop — The train passes through Haputale about halfway through the journey. From the train, you can see Lipton's Seat in the distance. Some travellers get off here and continue to Ella later in the day. The Haputale station is perched on a ridge with views in both directions.
• Demodara loop and the Nine Arch Bridge — The last section before Ella. The famous Nine Arch Bridge is visible from the train just before Demodara station. If you are staying in Ella, walk to the bridge from town the morning after your train ride. The photo from below the bridge, with a train crossing above, is worth the short hike.
• Ella arrival — Arriving at Ella station is an experience itself. The platform is right in the centre of town, and tuk-tuk drivers meet every train. Walk up from the station into Ella's main street. The guesthouses on the hills above town offer views back over the valley you just travelled through.
• The reverse journey (Ella to Nanu Oya) — Equally scenic and often less crowded. If you are staying in Ella and want a day trip, the morning train from Ella to Nanu Oya gets you into Nuwara Eliya by late morning. You can explore the town, visit Gregory Lake, and return by train in the afternoon. The views are just as good in both directions.

Getting around

Kandy to Nanu Oya (road): Since the Kandy to Nanu Oya railway section is closed, you need to travel by road. The drive takes 2.5 to 3 hours depending on traffic. A private taxi costs $35 to $50 and is the most comfortable option. The road winds through the hills with plenty of scenic stops — ask your driver to stop at the Ramboda waterfall viewpoint.

Bus from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya: Public buses run from Kandy's central bus station to Nuwara Eliya every 30 to 45 minutes. The journey takes 3 to 4 hours and costs about $1.50. The buses are basic but reliable. From Nuwara Eliya town, a tuk-tuk to Nanu Oya station costs 400 to 600 LKR ($1.20 to $1.80) and takes 25 minutes.

Nano Oya to Ella by train (the main event): Two departures daily from Nanu Oya station at 9:00 AM and 2:30 PM. The journey takes 2 hours 15 minutes to 2 hours 30 minutes. Tickets are sold at the station on the day of travel and can also be reserved 30 days in advance. The 9:00 AM departure is recommended for morning light and cooler temperatures.

Ella to Nanu Oya (reverse): Departures at 9:52 AM and 3:52 PM from Ella station. The same 2-hour-15-minute journey in reverse. The morning departure gets you to Nanu Oya around noon, giving you time for a short Nuwara Eliya visit before returning.

Colombo to Nanu Oya (direct road): If you are arriving from Colombo rather than Kandy, the direct drive to Nanu Oya takes 3.5 to 4 hours via the Southern Expressway and Avissawella, or 4.5 hours via Kandy. A private taxi costs $50 to $65. The Southern Expressway route is faster and more comfortable, but the Kandy route offers better scenery. Public buses from Colombo to Nuwara Eliya run frequently from the Pettah bus stand, costing about $2.50 and taking 5 to 6 hours.

Ella onward: From Ella, you can continue south by bus or taxi to the coastal towns or take the train toward Colombo via the coastal line. The road from Ella to the south coast (Wellawaya route) takes about 2 hours and is scenic in its own way, passing through dry forest and hills. The bus from Ella to Wellawaya costs about $0.80 and connects to south coast routes from there.

What to avoid: Do not assume you can buy a Kandy to Ella train ticket at Kandy station and board there. The Kandy to Nanu Oya section is not operating. Some third-party websites still list the full route as active. Verify that your ticket starts from Nanu Oya or Ambewela, not Kandy. And avoid booking a very early arrival into Ella if you take the afternoon train — the 5:00 PM arrival gives you limited daylight for exploring.

What to budget

The Nanu Oya to Ella train is one of the best-value experiences in Sri Lanka. The trick is getting the budget right for the taxi or bus from Kandy to Nanu Oya, which is the unexpected extra cost.

• Budget traveller (public bus + train 3rd class): $8–12 per person. Bus from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya $1.50, tuk-tuk to Nanu Oya station $1.20, train ticket 3rd class 300–500 LKR ($1–1.50), snacks and water $2–3. This is the cheapest way to do it and the train experience is identical regardless of class — 3rd class on local trains is perfectly fine for a 2-hour ride.
• Standard traveller (taxi + train 2nd class): $25–35 per person. Shared taxi from Kandy to Nanu Oya $15–20 (split among 2–3 people), train ticket 2nd class reserved 4,000 LKR ($12), snacks and water $3–5. The reserved 2nd class guarantees a seat, which matters on this route. The Ella Odyssey train at 2,000 LKR is excellent value.
• Comfort traveller (private taxi + train 1st class): $55–75 per person. Private taxi from Kandy to Nanu Oya $35–50, train ticket 1st class observation saloon 5,000 LKR ($15), meal at Nanu Oya $5–8. The observation saloon has large windows that open, comfortable seats, and fewer passengers. Book 30 days in advance for this class — it sells out first.
• Traveller from Colombo: $65–95 per person. Private taxi from Colombo directly to Nanu Oya $50–70 (3.5 to 4 hours), or take the train from Colombo Fort to Nanu Oya if that section is operating. Train 1st class air-conditioned $17–20. The morning departure works well if you leave Colombo by 5:00 AM.

Cash is essential for train tickets bought at the station. Nanu Oya station has limited ATM access — the nearest reliable ATMs are in Nuwara Eliya town. Bring enough cash for tickets and incidentals.

One budget trick that returning travellers use: buy a 3rd class ticket at the station for the Nanu Oya to Ella leg, then find a seat in an unreserved carriage. For a two-hour journey, 3rd class is perfectly comfortable and the views are identical to 1st class. The difference is you might stand for part of the journey if the train is full. If you want a guaranteed seat, the reserved 2nd class is worth the extra $11.

WATCH OUT FOR

Tickets sell out faster than you expect. The Nanu Oya to Ella section has been running for only three days. Demand is enormous. Tickets for the 9:00 AM departure sell out within hours of the 30-day booking window opening. If you have a specific date, book as early as possible. The afternoon departure has more availability but the light is less dramatic for photographs.

False positives on booking websites. Multiple third-party travel sites still list the full "Kandy to Ella" train route as operational. They are selling you a ticket that cannot be used from Kandy. Check the departure station carefully before paying. If the ticket says Kandy as the departure point, it is not currently valid and you will need road transport to Nanu Oya anyway.

The Ella Odyssey is not the only option. Some travellers assume the Ella Odyssey is the only train on this route. It is one of several services. The regular trains run on the same track, take about the same time, and cost significantly less. The Ella Odyssey adds a few photo stops and has slightly better onboard service, but the views are identical on any train.

Seat side matters. The left side of the train (facing south from Nanu Oya to Ella) offers the best views. The right side faces hillsides and rock cuts for much of the journey. On the return trip (Ella to Nanu Oya), sit on the right side. Get to the station at least 30 minutes early to secure your side.

The weather can change mid-journey. The hill country is unpredictable. You can leave Nanu Oya under clear skies and arrive in Ella in a downpour. The mist and rain actually make for dramatic photographs, but bring a light jacket regardless of the morning forecast. The temperature drops noticeably as the train climbs.

Tuk-tuks at Ella station price for tourists. The tuk-tuk drivers who meet every train know that new arrivals are tired and ready to pay. The walk from Ella station to most town-centre hotels is 5 to 10 minutes on foot. Only take a tuk-tuk if your accommodation is up a steep hill. Negotiate the price before getting in — 200 to 300 LKR is fair for a short ride within Ella town.

GOOD TO KNOW

The Nanu Oya to Ella section is one of the few train journeys in the world that is worth building an itinerary around. The best time for the morning train is the 9:00 AM departure. You get morning light on the tea plantations, fewer clouds in the valleys, and cooler temperatures. The afternoon 2:30 PM departure has warmer light and is usually less crowded.

Tickets can be reserved 30 days in advance at major railway stations or through authorised agents. The Sri Lanka Railways official website opens bookings exactly 30 days before the travel date at 9:00 AM. For Ella Odyssey specifically, booking exactly 30 days ahead is strongly recommended for the observation saloon and first class seats, which sell out within hours.

The 30-day booking rule applies strictly. If you are planning a trip, mark the booking date on your calendar. Missing the 30-day window by even one day can mean the difference between a reserved seat and standing for the entire journey.

Nanu Oya is not Nuwara Eliya. Some travellers make this mistake and tell their taxi driver "Nanu Oya station" when they mean "Nuwara Eliya town." The station is 30 minutes down the hill from the town centre. If you are staying in Nuwara Eliya, factor in the extra 25-minute tuk-tuk ride to the station on departure morning.

The station itself has no luggage storage. If you are doing the train one-way and need to collect luggage from your Nuwara Eliya hotel, arrange a late checkout or ask your hotel to send your bags to Nanu Oya station by tuk-tuk. Some guesthouses near the station offer informal bag storage for a small fee.

Trains on this route can run 15 to 30 minutes late. Sri Lanka Railways runs on "island time" — punctuality is approximate. Do not schedule a tight connection after your planned arrival. If you need to reach the south coast the same day, allow at least two hours between your train arrival in Ella and your onward transport.

If you do not have time to queue at the station or navigate the online booking system, authorised agents charge a modest markup of 500 to 1,000 LKR per ticket for handling the reservation. Ceylon Expeditions and similar operators act as intermediaries. For most travellers, this is worth the convenience, especially for the Ella Odyssey observation saloon which sells out within minutes of the booking window opening.

December to March offers the best weather for the hill country train — clear skies, cooler temperatures, and the tea plantations at their greenest. April and May can be hot but still excellent. The June to September period brings more rain but fewer crowds. The monsoon clouds rolling through the valleys create a different kind of beauty.

WHERE TO STAY

• Rock Grand View (Ella) — Balcony views over Ella Gap that guests consistently describe as the best in town. The morning breakfast served overlooking the valley is the main reason travellers recommend this property. The walk to the railway station is 15 minutes downhill — manageable with a daypack but a tuk-tuk is recommended with luggage.
• Tea Cabins (Ella) — Small wooden cabins perched above the tea plantations with private verandas. Guests repeatedly mention watching the morning train pass through the valley below from their balcony. The property offers free tuk-tuk service to and from Ella station, which matters after the long train journey.
• Grand Hotel (Nuwara Eliya) — A colonial-era hotel that makes an excellent base for the morning train. The proximity to Nanu Oya station (25 minutes by tuk-tuk) means you can catch the 9:00 AM departure without an early-morning rush. Guests praise the breakfast buffet and the old-world atmosphere. Stay here the night before your train if you are arriving from Kandy.
• Fern Hill Cabins (Ella) — Glass-walled cabins on the hillside with uninterrupted views of the Ella valley. Travellers who stayed here specifically chose it for the sunrise view over the mountains. The property is a 20-minute walk from the station but offers a free shuttle. The welcome tea on arrival sets the tone for the hill country experience.
• Heavenly Peace Inn (Nuwara Eliya) — A mid-range option close to Nanu Oya station with clean rooms and a straightforward booking experience. Guests appreciate the owner's help arranging early-morning transport to the station. The home-cooked dinner is mentioned in multiple reviews as a highlight, especially the rice and curry.

The bottom line

The Nanu Oya to Ella train is back, and it is every bit as spectacular as the photos suggest. The extra road journey from Kandy to Nanu Oya adds some inconvenience, but it also means you appreciate the train ride more when it starts. Plan ahead, book your tickets early, build your itinerary around the morning departure, and you will leave the hill country wondering why every train journey in the world cannot be this good.

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